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CarAudioCalc

Electrical calculator

Big 3 Upgrade Wire Size Calculator

Quick answer

The big 3 is three cables sized to carry the alternator full output. A 150 amp alternator needs 1/0 gauge on all three runs to hold voltage drop under 2 percent over a typical 4 foot engine bay route, and all three are added alongside the factory cables rather than replacing them.

Your numbers

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Result

Wire size for all three runs 1/0 AWG Published figure
Alternator output 150 A
Voltage drop at full output 0.146 V Published figure
Fuse for the alternator run 150 A Published figure

The three runs are: alternator positive to battery positive, battery negative to chassis, and engine block to chassis. The engine to chassis strap is the one people skip and it is often the worst connection in the car.

The formula

Size each of the three runs for the alternator rated output at the target voltage drop

The big 3 does not add power. It removes resistance from paths the factory sized for a stock electrical load, so the voltage at the amplifier stops sagging. Add the new cables in parallel with the factory ones rather than cutting anything out, and fuse the alternator run near the alternator.

The figures above are computed with these exact inputs: Alternator output 150 A, Longest run, one way 4 ft, Maximum voltage drop 2 %.

What this calculator assumes

Some of these are published physics or manufacturer figures and some are conventions. They are not the same kind of number, so each one is labeled.

AssumptionKindWhere it comes from
NEC Chapter 9Published figureNEC Chapter 9, Table 8, uncoated stranded copper at 75 C
NEC Table 310.16Published figureNEC Table 310.16, 75 C copper

Gear that matches this result

Every card below is in the page source. The calculator re-ranks them against your numbers and marks anything that falls short of what you just calculated.

Frequently asked questions

How does the big 3 wire size calculation work?
Size each of the three runs for the alternator rated output at the target voltage drop. The big 3 does not add power. It removes resistance from paths the factory sized for a stock electrical load, so the voltage at the amplifier stops sagging. Add the new cables in parallel with the factory ones rather than cutting anything out, and fuse the alternator run near the alternator.
Are these figures published or are they rules of thumb?
Both, and the page labels which is which. The Helmholtz port relation, the Thiele/Small alignment equations, cone area geometry, Ohm’s law, conductor resistance and ampacity, and manufacturer specifications are published and are labeled as such. Amplifier efficiency, cabin gain, the farad per thousand watts rule, port area per cubic foot and coverage percentages are conventions with no measurement behind them, and they are labeled as conventions.
Why does this calculator sometimes refuse to give an answer?
Because there genuinely is not one. A port can be too large in area for the box and tuning asked of it, a vented alignment stops describing a useful box outside a Qts range, and a sealed box cannot produce a total Q below the driver’s own. In each case the calculator returns nothing and explains why, rather than extrapolating past the end of a published relation.
Do I still need an installer if I use this?
Many owners do their own 12V work, and these are the figures that work is sized from. What matters is that a car battery delivers hundreds of amps into a short without hesitating, so the main fuse goes within 18 inches of the battery positive terminal and the battery comes off before power wire goes in. If any of that is beyond what you want to take on, a professional installer is money well spent.

Researched guidance, not professional advice. These results are planning figures from published relations and manufacturer specifications. Fit the main fuse within 18 inches of the battery positive terminal, because that fuse protects the wire and the wire is what starts a fire. Disconnect the battery before running power wire, use a grommet through every piece of sheet metal, and remember that sustained high sound pressure causes permanent hearing damage.